“You white people can’t drive,” he said, smelling of alcohol. In between my wife, the ice box, the water bottles and our luggage sat two large Native Americans. En route to Canyon De Chelly we took the proverbial ‘short cut’ down a semi-paved road in New Mexico. We were exploring the area around Shiprock, Farmington, and Many Farms, as these are prominent in the novels of Tony Hillerman.
Out of place on my street, but a perfect fit for the clay red road and big blue sky were shepherds and cowboys, cows and wild horses. An Indian woman appeared at the side of the road driving sheep. The road developed deeper and deeper ruts and less and less paving. The scenery grew in color and complexity; blood reds, citrine yellows, bone whites; and the two lone men walking.
Stopping to ask them where we were, they asked us to give us a ride back the way we came. Apparently, the road we were on would not take us (expediently) to where we wanted to go. The road was rutted with tire marks on either side of a high, rail-like middle. I’m driving and trying to keep the tires in line with the road, while each bounce slams the undercarriage against the bump in the middle. This is made much worse by the extra six-hundred pounds of Native American squeezed into the Toyota. The Indians continue to rant about my driving, the wife interjecting commentary, and I imagine the oil pan slamming into the road one-to-many times before it shatters into a million pieces. Finally, I’d had enough. I stop the car. At the top of my lungs, I scream, “Everybody out!” Realizing that I was serious, and very near the edge, the men leave the vehicle. We leave them with two water bottles, and continue on our way.
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I have deeply enjoyed each of the Jim Chee and Joe Leaphorn novels. If not for Hillerman, I would have missed out on the previous adventure. Greater still, I would have missed out on a respectful and well-balanced look into the Navajo culture tied in with some wonderful mystery writing. Finally, I would never have met Jim Chee or Joe Leaphorn, two fictional members of the Navajo Tribal police department, two men of deep character and integrity who rank among my top ten leading characters in the mystery genre.
I am saddened by the thought that there will be no more Joe Leaphorn or Jim Chee stories. Tony Hillerman died yesterday, at the age of 83.
Monday, October 27, 2008
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